Practical Assessment - Partners Design

Skin Consultation :

Age - 21

Allergies - None

Skin type - dry and sensitive

Any products that do not agree with the skin - no

Skin regime - Exfoliate every other day, cleans tone and moistures daily.

Any skin conditions or acne? No

Product + Equipment List

Skin Prep:

Cleanser 

Toner

Moisturizer 

Baby buds

Illamasqua Matt Primer

Skin Base:

Illamasqua White Foundation

MAC Face + Body Foundation

Illamasqua Translucent Powder

Lips:

MAC ‘Basic Red’ Lip Liner

Illasmaqua ‘Gold’ Liquid Metal Palette

Kryolan Lip Palette - LC005

Eyes + Brows;

MAC ‘Fascinating’ White Kohl Pencil 

MAC White Lipmix

Eye Palette - Barely There Pink

Cheeks; 

Illamasqua Cream Blusher – Promise

Brushes

Foundation Brush

Lip Brush

Blending Brush

Fine Liner Brush

Contour Brush

Disposable Mascara Wands

Make Up - Step by Step;

Step 1 

•              Cleanse, Tone and Moisturize skin.

•               Remove any mascara with baby bud

•               Apply Matt Primer all over using foundation brush.

Step 2

•               Making sure there is a sure divide in colour, apply white foundation to the top part of the face/over the eyes and on the nose. Use sparingly and let the coat build slowly NOTE - do not apply to much, keep buffing into the skin.

•               On the lower part of the face, add MAC Face +Body foundation and blend slightly where the two different foundation tones meet.

•               On the neck and ears apply white foundation and do the same buffing technique as before.

Step 3

•               Apply Lip Liner to the outside of the lip and accentuate the Cupids Bow

•               Fill lips in with lip palette color chosen using flat lip brush.

•        Get the Liquid Metal Palette and draw on the Cupids Bow and dragging the line down the centre of the lip and onto the bottom - use fine liner brush.

Step 4

•               Using the eye Kohl, draw on the inside of the eye

•               Apply white lipmix onto a mascara wand and comb through the brows and lashes (top and bottom)

•               Apply ‘barely there’ pink eyeshadow to the lid, with the blending brush

Step 5

•               With the Cream Blusher, apply with a contour brush and blend high up on the cheeks and following the cheek bone 

•               Add translucent powder on top

Self Evaluation:

My initial reaction to my partner's design was that it looked fairly simple and achievable yet still effective. I felt that I could confidently create this look. Unfortunately I was unable to practise this look on my partner. We had plans to practise on the weekend before the assessment but there was multiple miscommunications so I ended up practising the look on myself. My partner sent me images of the look she had practised on herself and the facechart, so this helped me a lot. I also offered alternatives to the look which my partner really liked so we used these for the final look.

Whilst practising this look on myself, I noticed that the white base didn’t sit on my skin very well. It made my skin incredibly shiny, so I experimented with powder. This made the look a lot better so we decided to use that in the final design. Before the assessment, I noticed that on the skin consultation that my partner has fairly dry skin. We still used the powder but it made her skin look a little ‘caked’ and a bit dry. But thankfully this didn’t show up in the photos at all and ended up looking really effective.

All of the techniques in this look were fairly straight forward as they have all been practised in class before. This gave me a lot of confidence in producing the look and I felt my partner was really happy with the outcome.

I really liked the final outcome for this look. I felt it complimented the hair nicely and it fitted the brief really well. I felt like I managed my time well enough to create the intended look comfortably.

Final Face Charts

This look was inspired by symbollic meanings of colours often presented in Elizabethan portraiture. Here, I chose purple and gold. These colours symbolised wealth and royalty. You can see the skin is very pale and the purple creates the effect of coldness. The gold coming down from the eyes is supposed to represent tears. I chose this royal sadness as a theme as I feel it represents Elizabeth I and her lonliness of being royal. The lips are strong and powerful, symbolic of her personality.

Here, I have played on the Elizabethan trend of pale skin with pink tones and mixing it with a bold black lip and silver rhinestones. The face is very simple, with the eyebrows effectively bleached out. A simple black line on the upper lid finished off with false lashes at the ends of the eyes on bottom and top. This look is very cold and stern, yet has a hint of femininity.

This look is my favourite out of them all and is a potential final look. I love the contrast in skin tones. The bright white base highlighting the face and creating a ghostly look, with the contrast of the deep warm tones where the face is dramatically contoured. I have used shades of gold and bronze to create this look. The metallic effect creates a sense of royalty. The deep red lip is a slight twist on the bright red lip of traditional Elizabethan makeup. The shape is very Elizabethan and creates a focus point of the face. The eyelashes are again just applied to the outer corners of the eyes for a contemporary twist.

Lips

‘Lip Trip’ Lip Designs

Equipment:

·      Exfoliator

·      Lip balm

·      Puff

·      Lip liner

·      Lip palette

·      Loose powder

·      White base

·      Flat brush

·      Angled brush

·      Fluffy brush

·      Gloss

·      Tissue

·      Baby buds

Instructions:

·      Assess skin typ and lips.

·      Prep the lips by exfoliating in circular motion with a muslin/exfoliating pad and moisturiser. Apply balm after and masage into lips.

·      Prep the lower part of face and apply base.

·      Apply lip liner my massaging the pencil backwards and forwards to create a stronger pigment.

·      For more control, ask model to tilt head and slant the pencil in the direction on the lips. Hold pencil closer to the tip and wear a puff on the little finger to avoid contact taking the base off.

·      To largen the lips, bring the line slightly above the lip.

·      Regularly stand back to check if the lips are evenly drawn on.

·      Pencil in the rest of the lips to create a colour primer.

·      Cover entire lips with lipstick using a flat brush.

·      Use an angled brush for a defined look.

·      Blot lips using tissue and reapply lipstick multiple times to fix the colour.

Matte lips:

·      Apply colour to lips as instructed above.

·      Hold up tissue to lips and dust through loose transparent powder using a fluffy brush.

Glossy lips:

·      Apply colour as instructed above.

·      Apply gloss over the top, but only focus on the centre of the lips and cupid’s bow.

Pinched ombre lips:

·      Prep the lips as before.

·      Apply a white base over the lips. This helps the colour to pop more by creating a blank canvas for the colour.

·      Using a fluffy brush, ‘buff’ the cream colour onto the lips, focusing more on the centre.

·      At the very centre of the lips, dab on the colour with your fingers for a more intense colour.

·      For a slightly different look, try applying coloured powder with a fluffy brush.

Face Charts

The main focus for this look is the feather eyelashes. The are large and very out there yet soft and delicate. The skin is pale and porcelain like with a bright red smudged lip.

The theme here is wealth and royalty as the face is heavily highlighted with a metallic gold and bronze shine. The face is drawn in to the centre with the direction of the contouring and this creates a strong look. The lips are dusted with gold and the eyelashes are left bare.

I attempted the look on myself. The look isn't as strong as I'd hoped for as I didn’t apply a base before and I had left over mascara still on. But the gold is striking and works well with the bronze.

This look was inspired by the lash deco workshop that we had. I wanted to find suitable materials that could be transferred onto the face. I left the face very plain, pale and with a pink blush. I also left the lips, brows and lashes bare to create a heavy focus on the lace. I didn’t have enough lace to do both eyes at this point but the you can still see the direction the look was going in. The lace is navy which is softer than black and it doesn’t overpower the face. Lace is symbolic of virginal and innocence, but the twist of it being a dark colour contradicts this.

Elizabethan Looks

Traditional Elizabethan Makeup Look:

Pale white base

Matter powdered face

Pink blush on cheeks, around eyes and temples of forehead

Pale eyebrows and eyelashes

Pink pinched lips