Face Charts

The main focus for this look is the feather eyelashes. The are large and very out there yet soft and delicate. The skin is pale and porcelain like with a bright red smudged lip.

The theme here is wealth and royalty as the face is heavily highlighted with a metallic gold and bronze shine. The face is drawn in to the centre with the direction of the contouring and this creates a strong look. The lips are dusted with gold and the eyelashes are left bare.

I attempted the look on myself. The look isn't as strong as I'd hoped for as I didn’t apply a base before and I had left over mascara still on. But the gold is striking and works well with the bronze.

This look was inspired by the lash deco workshop that we had. I wanted to find suitable materials that could be transferred onto the face. I left the face very plain, pale and with a pink blush. I also left the lips, brows and lashes bare to create a heavy focus on the lace. I didn’t have enough lace to do both eyes at this point but the you can still see the direction the look was going in. The lace is navy which is softer than black and it doesn’t overpower the face. Lace is symbolic of virginal and innocence, but the twist of it being a dark colour contradicts this.

Elizabethan Looks

Traditional Elizabethan Makeup Look:

Pale white base

Matter powdered face

Pink blush on cheeks, around eyes and temples of forehead

Pale eyebrows and eyelashes

Pink pinched lips

'Perfect' Eyes and Lips

Equipment:

·      Cleanser, toner, moisturiser

·      Base

·      Concealer

·      Powder

·      Brushes

·      Puff

·      Cotton pads

·      Cotton buds

·      Eyeshadows

·      Eyeliner

·      Mascara

·      Disposable wands

·      Lip balm

·      Lip liner

·      Lips stick and gloss

Eye shadow:

·      Apply base and concealer.

·      Powder the face using puff and large brush.

·      Apply powder under eyes heavily to help remove any loose powder after.

·      Use light, medium and dark shades of powder to shape eyes.

·      Hold brush close to the tip for better control.

·      Apply light shadow first, all the way up to the brow.

·      Using the medium shade, start to shape the eye by deepening the socket and ceating a side ‘v’ shape (along the lash line and deepening the socket).

·      Use cotton buds to help blend in the different shades and to correct.

·      Use the darkest shade to deepen the socket further and create more impact.

·      Brush excess powder away from underneath the eyes.

Eye liner:

·      Use a flat brush and gel liner.

·      Stretch eyelid but pulling eyelid out to the side (use cotton pad to avoid removing base makeup).

·      Getting right into the lash line, use backwards and forward strokes to make sure eyeliner gets right into the root on the lashes.

·      Flick the ends of the liner out at the sides to create the illusion of larger eyes.

·      Neatly finish off line using smooth strokes. 

Brow:

·      Using the correct shade of powder and a flat brush, gently stroke powder over the eyebrow hairs.

·      Angle the brush to create a better definition.

Mascara:

·      Get model to keep eyes open but look down.

·      Using a disposable wand, dip into the mascara.

·      Apply mascara on to of the lashes to cover the powder.

·      ‘Wiggle’ underneath the lashes to get right into the root and work your way out to the tip.

·      For bottom lashes, ask model to look up and use apply gently.

·      Correct any mistakes using a cotton bud.

Lips:

·      Prep lips by moisturising.

·      If possible, ask model to exfoliate and moisturise lips day before.

·      Line the lips to sharpen the look and stop the lipstick from bleeding (draw dots and join to help).

·      Blot and powder.

·      Using a flat edge/angled brush, fill in lips with colour.

·      Using the process of colouring, blotting and powdering repeatedly (up to 3 times) the colour will last longer.

·      To correct, use a cotton bud.

·      Try highlighting the cupid’s bow with highlighter or concealer to create a stronger impact.

·      To make lips look fuller, gloss the lips (in the centre).

Lash Deco: PAPERSELF WORKSHOP

The purpose of Lash Deco is to make the look stand out, make it striking and thinking about different textures. Lash deco is inspired by focusing on shapes, often interior design.

Lash Pigmenting:

Equipment:

·      Flat brush

·      Mixing medium

·      Pigment

How to pigment lashes:

·      Using a mixing medium and colour pigment, create a paste of the colour. Add more pigment to create a brighter colour.

·      Ask model to keep eyes open, but look down.

·      Using a flat brush, massage the pigment into the root of the lashes.

·      Work the brush outwards to cover the rest of the lashes

·      Be sure to cover ontop of the lashes and underneath.

False Lash Application:

Equipment:

·      Duo eyelash glue

·      Tweezers

·      Nail scissors

·      False eyelashes

Applying lashes:

·      Measure eyelashes against model’s eye and determine desired length of false lashes.

·      Cut lashes to the length using nail scissors.

·      Using duo eyelash glue, apply to lashes.

·      Wait for glue to become ‘tacky’ before application (approx 30-45 seconds).

·      Ask model to look down.

·      Using tweezers, apply lashes to eyelid making sure they are as close to the lash line as possible for a more natural look.

·      Push from the tip of the lashes onto the eyelid for a secure application.

For my look, I was given the Scorpion PAPERSELF lashes.

This was my look from one of the previous facecharts using the Scorpion PAPERSELF lashes.

For this look I pigmented the lashes orange to experiment with the demonstration shown. Then I applied the Scorpion PAPERSELF lashes over the top just at the corners. If I could create this look again, I would use black mascara on the upper lashes so they can blend in better with the false lashes. Then pigment the lower lashes orange to coincide with the orange detail at the sides.

Face Charts

This week, our task was to construct FOUR face charts for our Elizabethan character based on:

1.COMPLIMENTARY COLOUR

2.MONOCHROMATIC COLOUR

3.ANALOGOUS COLOUR

4.NEUTRAL COLOUR

For my complimentary colours I chose red and green. My idea consists of subtle contouring of the face in red, emphasising a high brow with a green eye shadow and introducing a mix of red and green on the lips. For this look I would choose both my green and red shadows from my Screenface palette to contour the face and shadow the eyelids. The eyeshadow would be brought right up to the upper lashline and the lashes would be pigmented in the same colour. For the lips, I would have mixed these shadows with a mixing medium to create the same colours and transfer them onto the lips. 

The monochromatic colour I chose for this look was orange. Being orange, I looked at fire as inspiration. I feathered the eyebrows to create quite an aggressive look and feathered the outer eyes to emphasise a firey spark-like effect. To create this look, I would contour the cheeks using shades of orange and yellow, creating a two-tonal definition. I would use the same colours on the inside of the eyes and brush over the brows. For the eye and brow detail, I would use Kryolan Supracolor palette and a flat brush and sweep o fine lines to create the feathered look. For the brows I would use a lighter orange, overlayed with a deep orange. For the lips, I would use the same palette with a light orange and deep orange and blend to create a 3D effect.

For my analogous look I wanted to create something quite structured to make the face look powerful and futuristic. The colours purple and blue were often associated with royalty and status during the Elizabethan era. I have contoured the face really strongly to create a harsh look that shows power and status, just as Elizabeth I wanted to portray herself. I have left the eyelashes and eyebrows bare to emphasise the idea of fair hair and to help focus the attention on the colour detail. 

For my neutral look, I wanted to create something really contoured with the soft colours. I felt that this could add a sense of power and status to such neutral colours, making it feel more Elizabethan. For this look, the eyebrows would be very pale or erased with cover up makeup. This effect will make the look more interesting, allowing the focus to be on the heavy contouring and structure of the face. The lips has a slight pinched ombre effect in a burgundy shade.   

Practical: Complimentary Colour Contouring

During this practical, we explored extreme contouring and highlighting combined with the use of the colour wheel. We used two complimentary colours and decided which colour would be best for contouring and the best for highlighting. The colours I chose were blue and orange. I thought it was better to use the orange to highlight and the blue to contour.  Using such bright colours allowed the contouring to be more obvious and it really created an interesting outcome.

To achieve this look as best as possible, we prepped the skin, applied and base and heavily powdered. This allowed the colour powders to be applied to the skin with more ease.

After the face had been contoured with complimentary colours, we decided to use grease based colours to paint on definite lines to create a more interesting outcome. I did this at random, but often followed the lines of the face.